Getting Down to Beekeeping Basics By Mike Pett

Getting Down to BasicsBy Mike Pett

Equipment: What You Need and What You Don’t

At the last meeting, I stressed the importance of being well protected when you work with your bees. Your number one investment should be a good bee-proof suit and veil, together with gloves. For a beginner, this will give you added confidence when inspecting and manipulating the hive.

Of course, you’ll be acquiring a bee hive or two complete with bees, but I do not consider this “equipment.” The following items are essential:

Essential Equipment:

• Smoker and fuel

• J-type hive tool

• Flat-type hive tool

• Uncapping fork

• Bee brush

• Cover cloth

Secondary Equipment (as experience grows):

• Queen cage

• Mouse guards

• Hammer

• Screwdriver

• Secateurs

• Possibly a grass hook

History of Hives, Bees, and Mankind

Bees have existed for millions of years, far older than humankind. They likely evolved in hot, tropical climates where food was abundant, gradually spreading to colder areas through adaptation.

Bees have never been domesticated; they remain the only wild animal regularly used by humans. Originally, bees nested in hollow trees and, armed with a powerful sting, had few natural enemies. Their principal threat was forest fires, which could destroy colonies, prompting bees to gorge on honey and fly to a new home with sufficient food.

Recorded history shows that humans have kept bees in primitive straw hives or logs for at least 4,000 years. This practice continued until the early 20th century, when Isle of Wight Disease almost wiped out honey bees in the UK.

During the Middle Ages, studies revealed that bees could be kept in wooden hives with moveable frames, allowing swarming control. By the 19th century, moveable-frame hives—such as the Dadant and Langstroth in North America, and the WBC in the UK—were developed. These hives enabled modern beekeeping to progress, and today, moveable-frame hives are nearly universal outside of less developed regions.

What It All Looks Like

A typical hive consists of:

• Wooden floor board with entrance block

• Wooden brood chamber containing brood frames

• Metal queen excluder

• One or more wooden supers containing super frames

• Crown board and roof

From the outside, the hive appears as stacked wooden boxes of varying sizes.

Buying Bees & Equipment

Be careful when buying bees. Colonies can carry diseases, so always ensure you purchase healthy colonies, preferably recently inspected by a Bee Inspector from the National Bee Unit.

A reputable supplier is no guarantee of health, and many new beekeepers have been caught out. You may also acquire colonies from local beekeepers or associations at a lower cost. Ultimately, the choice is personal.

When buying second-hand equipment:

• Be mindful of disease

• Scorch wooden equipment with a gas blow torch

• Never use second-hand brood frames—purchase new frames, which are inexpensive and easy to assemble

The Beekeeper’s Year

Early Year: Avoid opening hives too early to prevent chilling the brood. Wait for a sunny day in April and ensure bees have enough food stores. “Heft” the hives from the rear to judge weight without opening them. Feed with sugar syrup or candy if necessary, but never honey from unknown sources.

Routine Inspections (May–July): Always have a plan and ask:

1. Is the hive queen-right?

2. Are there signs of disease?

3. Is there enough room for colony expansion?

4. Are the bees preparing to swarm?

5. Where is the queen—brood chamber or super?

Keep written notes of inspections, feeding, swarms, and dates—otherwise, details are easily forgotten.

Mid-Year: By July, swarming risk diminishes. Ensure adequate space for honey storage.

Late Year (Aug–Oct): Harvest honey in August/September, reduce hive size, and ensure bees have enough food for winter. Place hives on a solid foundation, use entrance blocks/mouse guards, and guard against woodpeckers.

Siting Apiaries

• Place hives away from neighbors and household areas

• Preferably south-facing, sunny locations

• Avoid sites under trees or prone to flooding

• Screen hives from prevailing winds using hedges or fences

• Raise the flight line with barriers in front of hives

• Ensure easy access for moving full supers

Handling Bees

The only way to get comfortable with bees is to open hives and carry out manipulations:

• Use smoke sparingly, and wait a few minutes before proceeding

• Be gentle and avoid jarring the hive

• Read the bees’ mood; if they are aggressive due to weather (e.g., thunder), close the hive and leave quietly

• Remember: there is always another day

Mike Pett